Across the EU, three thousand products are recognised as top specialities. From Champagne to Prosciutto di Parma to Roquefort, only the real thing, made in the local area to a traditional recipe can use the name.
Italy has 888 products registered on the EU list, Germany has 179 and Spain has 381.
But Ireland only has 13.
These products have gone through a rigorous, sometimes torturous process to ensure that they really are what they claim to be: traditional, unique and special.
Once on the list of so-called EU ‘geographical indications’, these products can bear a special EU logo which marks them apart on shop shelves. And listed products are protected against others who might like to use the name and benefit from the brand association.
The dozen or so Irish products which make the cut include Comeragh Mountain Lamb, Oriel Sea Salt and Irish Whiskey (Uisce Beatha Eireannac). Timoleague Brown Pudding, Clare Island Salmon and Irish Cream are also on the prestigious list.
“It’s really a win-win for everyone involved”, says Helen Kearns from the European Commission’s Representation in Ireland. “For the producers they get often to charge a premium price for what is clearly seen as a premium product. They stand out on the shelf and they’re protected from cheap imitations.”
The EU would like Irish producers to come forward and join the list.
So why doesn’t Ireland have more of them?
“We think it might be linked to, in some way, a different tradition than maybe in France or other European countries”, says Helen Kearns. These countries have many so-called producer organisations which might be “better equipped to put in the applications and organise to get these quality marks.”
The EU encourages farmers to join together in producer organisations because they “strengthen farmers’ collective bargaining power…it also supports those that wish to work with their partners from the manufacturing and trading side.”
Whilst there are hundreds of such organisations in countries like France, Ireland only has around half a dozen.